A: All too often, roof system problems are discovered after leaking or other serious damage occurs. Periodic (twice-a-year) inspections often can uncover cracked, warped or missing shingles; loose seams and deteriorated flashings; excessive surface granules accumulating in the gutters or downspouts; and other visible signs of roof system problems. Indoors, look for cracked paint, discolored plasterboard and peeling wallpaper as signs of damaged roof areas.
Q: What are my options if I decide to reroof?
A: You can choose a complete replacement of the roof system, involving a tear-off of your existing roof system, and the installation of a new roof system. If you’ve already had one re-cover installed on your original roof system, check with a professional roofing contractor. In many instances, building code requirements allow no more than one roof system re-cover before a complete replacement is necessary.
Q: My roof leaks. Do I need to have it replaced completely?
A: Not necessarily. Leaks can result from flashings that have come loose or a section of the roof system being damaged. A complete roof system failure, however, generally is irreversible and a result of improper installation or choice of materials or the roof system installation is inappropriate for the home or building.
Q: Can I do the work myself?
A: Most work should not be done yourself. Professional roofing contractors are trained to safely and efficiently repair or replace roof systems. You can damage your roof system by using improper roofing techniques and severely injure yourself by falling off or through the roof. Maintenance performed by home and building owners should be confined to inspecting roof systems during the fall and spring to check for cracked or curling shingles and cleaning gutters filled with dead leaves and other debris. If you must inspect your roof system yourself, use a firmly braced or tied-off ladder equipped with rubber safety feet. Wear rubber-soled shoes and stay on the ladder (and off the roof system), if possible.
Q: How long can I expect my roof system to last?
A: Most new roof systems are designed to provide useful service for about 20 years. Some roof system types, such as slate, clay tile and certain metal (e.g., copper) systems, can last longer. Actual roof system life span is determined by a number of factors, including local climatic and environmental conditions, proper building and roof system design, material quality and suitability, proper application and adequate roof maintenance. Roofing product manufacturers offer a variety of warranties on their products. Take a close look at those warranties to see what responsibilities and financial obligations manufacturers will assume if their products fail to reach their expected lives.
Q: What will a new roof system cost?
A: The price of a new roof system varies widely, depending on such things as the materials selected, contractor doing the work, home or building, location of the home or building, local labor rates and time of year. To get a good idea of price for your roof system, get three or four proposals from reputable contractors in your area. Keep in mind that price is only one factor, and it must be balanced with the quality of the materials and workmanship. For each roofing material, there are different grades and corresponding prices. There also are a variety of styles and shapes. You need to look at the full product range and make a choice based on your budget and needs. Within the roofing profession, there are different levels of expertise and craftsmanship. Insist on a contractor who is committed to quality work.
Q: How can I determine my annual roofing cost?
A: When considering your roofing options, the following formula may help: Total Cost (Materials and Labor) ÷ Life Expectancy of Roof System (in years) = Annual Roofing Cost
Not necessarily. Leaking can result from damage done to a section of the roof or from flashing coming loose. A roof failure, however, is generally irreversible and result from improper installation or choice of materials, or from the installation of a roof system inappropriate to the building.
How should I prepare for the installation of my new roof?
You should remove all loose items from your walls and shelves. The constant hammering may cause enough vibration to shake these items down. Make sure you have your driveway clear as well as the areas surrounding your home. This is because of the chance that material from the tear off could fall in the driveway or the area directly around your home. This will also give your contractor a place to store the material for your new roof as well as a place for the dumpster. Make sure the contractor puts plywood down in the driveway to protect it.
How long does it take to replace a roof?
Re-roof or new construction all depends on the type of roof, the weather, and the inspections needed. Generally for a small family home it can take a few days to large commercial projects that can take a few weeks to a few months. As long as your contractor manages the project closely and efficiently, the project should move smoothly.
How long should a roof last?
Like any building component, roofs degrade at different rates depending on a large number of factors: the quality of original construction, the level of abuse, the level of maintenance, appropriateness of design, etc. So how long should a roof last? We have seen poorly designed and installed roofs go as few as six or seven years before they failed, and we have seen old coal tar built up roofs that were 60 years old. Most building owners, roofing contractors and designers feel 20 years is an acceptable service life. Please keep in mind that in the hot Florida climate most roofing systems do not last as long as they do in other climates. Make sure when choosing your roof, you ask what the service life is in Florida, you might be surprised to find that a lot of them do not last for the full warranty and manufactures warranties
What is a roofing underlayment?
A roofing underlayment is typically a membrane that goes under the roof covering to help prevent water intrusion. One type of underlayment comes in rolls and is laid out across the roof and attached with ring shank nails or simplex nails this is called 30#. Another type of underlayment is adhered directly to the deck of the roof; this is considered by many insurance companies as Secondary Water Barrier and is called Peel & Stick. However in Miami-Dade County you can not apply this directly to the deck, you must first use a nailed (30#) underlayment and then the Peel & Stick underlayment. Most insurance companies will not give Secondary Water Barrier credit for Peel & Stick that is not direct to deck. Your underlayment is the one piece of the complete roof system that is solely designed to be the water proofing for your roof. This is true for all roofs except metal roofing where the metal is actually the water proof component, with extra protection from the underlayment.
Can I do my roofing work myself, or should I hire a contractor?
Most roofing work should not be done yourself. Manufactures generally will not give a warranty if you do not have a professional roofer install the product. Professionals are trained to handle the environment on the roof and can handle the conditions that may present themselves when doing a roofing job. The dangers to a homeowner with trying to do your own roof work could be a lot more expensive than just hiring a roofing professional to come out and do the work.
What can I do about mildew on my roof?
When your roof gets dirty there are several solutions that you can go with. One of the safest and least expensive ways to go is to use a product called roof a cide. This is an environment friendly product that you have installed on your roof every two years. This product has a two year warranty that guarantees your roof will stay clean for that period of time. This solution should be done by a qualified contractor as well and the warranty will not be given if it is not done by one of roof a cides installers. Once you have had this product sprayed on your roof, you should not ever have to clean it again.
Can I cover over my existing roof?
Installing a new roof over the top of an existing roof is generally acceptable under these guidelines: 1) A building can not have more than two roofs: 2) No wet insulation can be left in place: 3) the roof structure must be able to handle the additional roof load: 4) the new roof must be attached to the roof deck to meet wind loads (it is not generally acceptable to adhere the new roof to the old roof).
How many roofs can I put on?
Most building codes allow a structure to have two roof membranes in place, but not a third. The codes are also now requiring all roof layers to be removed once the two roof limit has been reached, when looking to install the third roof.
When is the best time to put a new roof on?
This question could be interpreted two ways, so we will answer each question.
1) In Florida there really is no “bad time” to install a new roof. As we all know it rains periodically through the year and rainy season is always. So as a roofer we always watch the weather and pray for no rain until the underlayment is down and secure.
2) The question might be put this way: “How do I know when my roof has failed?” Different types of roofs fail in different ways.
Does the roof leak in numerous locations?
Do leaks continue, despite repeated repair attempts?
Do repairs seem to make leaks worse, or do new leaks develop after rain?
How tolerant is the occupancy to leaks?
Low leak tolerance generally means the “failure” decision is reached earlier. It is generally better to reroof at the appropriate juncture, rather than poring money and time into ill advised repairs, but there are exceptions.
How can a homeowner recognize when a roof has problems?
All too often, roof problems are discovered after leaking or other serious damage occurs. Periodic (twice a year) inspections can often uncover cracked, warped, or missing shingles, loose seams and deteriorated flashings, excessive surface granules accumulating in the gutters or downspouts, and other visible signs of roof problems. Indoors, look for cracked paint, discolored plasterboard, and peeling wallpaper as signs of damaged roof areas.
What are my options if I decide to reroof?
You have two basic options. You can choose a complete replacement of the roof system, involving tearing off the old system, or you can do a recover over the existing roof, involving going over the existing roof. If you have already had one recover then you can not go over the existing roof.
What is the best roof?
Wouldn’t it be simple if there was one answer to all roofing problems? Unfortunately there is no magic pill in the roofing market that solves all roofing problems. What the market does offer is a wide selection of good products, each having attributes and faults. The key to selecting the proper roof system is to identify the specific roof design of your building and how each roof system works to meet the requirements.
What will a new roof cost?
The price of a new roof all depends on the type of material you select, weather you are removing the old roof or not, the type of underlayment, the price of the permit and so on. Make sure that you get at least three estimate if you believe that the cost is high. However, be sure that if one person comes in higher than the other that you ask the right questions about the type of material being used and the reputation of the company, just because it is cheaper does not mean that it is better. Sometimes the higher priced contractor is the one you want to go with because of their reputation as a well known contractor and because of the quality of the material they are using.
Not necessarily. Leaking can result from damage done to a section of the roof or from flashing coming loose. A roof failure, however, is generally irreversible and result from improper installation or choice of materials, or from the installation of a roof system inappropriate to the building.
How should I prepare for the installation of my new roof?
You should remove all loose items from your walls and shelves. The constant hammering may cause enough vibration to shake these items down. Make sure you have your driveway clear as well as the areas surrounding your home. This is because of the chance that material from the tear off could fall in the driveway or the area directly around your home. This will also give your contractor a place to store the material for your new roof as well as a place for the dumpster. Make sure the contractor puts plywood down in the driveway to protect it.
How long does it take to replace a roof?
Re-roof or new construction all depends on the type of roof, the weather, and the inspections needed. Generally, for a small family home it can take a few days to large commercial projects that can take a few weeks to a few months. As long as your contractor manages the project closely and efficiently, the project should move smoothly.
How long should a roof last?
Like any building component, roofs degrade at different rates depending on a large number of factors: the quality of original construction, the level of abuse, the level of maintenance, appropriateness of design, etc. So how long should a roof last? We have seen poorly designed and installed roofs go as few as six or seven years before they failed, and we have seen old coal tar built up roofs that were 60 years old. Most building owners, roofing contractors and designers feel 20 years is an acceptable service life. Please keep in mind that in the hot Florida climate most roofing systems do not last as long as they do in other climates. Make sure when choosing your roof, you ask what the service life is in Florida, you might be surprised to find that a lot of them do not last for the full warranty and manufactures warranties.
What is a roofing underlayment?
A roofing underlayment is typically a membrane that goes under the roof covering to help prevent water intrusion. One type of underlayment comes in rolls and is laid out across the roof and attached with ring shank nails or simplex nails this is called 30#. Another type of underlayment is adhered directly to the deck of the roof; this is considered by many insurance companies as Secondary Water Barrier and is called Peel & Stick. However, in Miami-Dade County you cannot apply this directly to the deck, you must first use a nailed (30#) underlayment and then the Peel & Stick underlayment. Most insurance companies will not give Secondary Water Barrier credit for Peel & Stick that is not direct to deck. Your underlayment is the one piece of the complete roof system that is solely designed to be the water proofing for your roof. This is true for all roofs except metal roofing where the metal is actually the waterproof component, with extra protection from the underlayment.
Can I do my roofing work myself, or should I hire a contractor?
Most roofing work should not be done yourself. Manufactures generally will not give a warranty if you do not have a professional roofer install the product. Professionals are trained to handle the environment on the roof and can handle the conditions that may present themselves when doing a roofing job. The dangers to a homeowner with trying to do your own roof work could be a lot more expensive than just hiring a roofing professional to come out and do the work.
What can I do about mildew on my roof?
When your roof gets dirty there are several solutions that you can go with. One of the safest and least expensive ways to go is to use a product called roof a cide. This is an environment friendly product that you have installed on your roof every two years. This product has a two-year warranty that guarantees your roof will stay clean for that period of time. This solution should be done by a qualified contractor as well and the warranty will not be given if it is not done by one of roof a cides installers. Once you have had this product sprayed on your roof, you should not ever have to clean it again.
Can I cover over my existing roof?
Installing a new roof over the top of an existing roof is generally acceptable under these guidelines: 1) A building cannot have more than two roofs: 2) No wet insulation can be left in place: 3) the roof structure must be able to handle the additional roof load: 4) the new roof must be attached to the roof deck to meet wind loads (it is not generally acceptable to adhere the new roof to the old roof).
How many roofs can I put on?
Most building codes allow a structure to have two roof membranes in place, but not a third. The codes are also now requiring all roof layers to be removed once the two-roof limit has been reached, when looking to install the third roof.
When is the best time to put a new roof on?
This question could be interpreted two ways, so we will answer each question.
1) In Florida there really is no “bad time” to install a new roof. As we all know it rains periodically through the year and rainy season is always. So as a roofer we always watch the weather and pray for no rain until the underlayment is down and secure.
2) The question might be put this way: “How do I know when my roof has failed?” Different types of roofs fail in different ways.
Does the roof leak in numerous locations?
Do leaks continue, despite repeated repair attempts?
Do repairs seem to make leaks worse, or do new leaks develop after rain?
How tolerant is the occupancy to leaks? Low leak tolerance generally means the “failure” decision is reached earlier. It is generally better to reroof at the appropriate juncture, rather than pouring money and time into ill-advised repairs, but there are exceptions.
How can a homeowner recognize when a roof has problems?
All too often, roof problems are discovered after leaking or other serious damage occurs. Periodic (twice a year) inspections can often uncover cracked, warped, or missing shingles, loose seams and deteriorated flashings, excessive surface granules accumulating in the gutters or downspouts, and other visible signs of roof problems. Indoors, look for cracked paint, discolored plasterboard, and peeling wallpaper as signs of damaged roof areas.
What are my options if I decide to reroof?
You have two basic options. You can choose a complete replacement of the roof system, involving tearing off the old system, or you can do a recover over the existing roof, involving going over the existing roof. If you have already had one recover, then you cannot go over the existing roof.
What is the best roof?
Wouldn’t it be simple if there was one answer to all roofing problems? Unfortunately, there is no magic pill in the roofing market that solves all roofing problems. What the market does offer is a wide selection of good products, each having attributes and faults. The key to selecting the proper roof system is to identify the specific roof design of your building and how each roof system works to meet the requirements.
What will a new roof cost?
The price of a new roof all depends on the type of material you select, weather you are removing the old roof or not, the type of underlayment, the price of the permit and so on. Make sure that you get at least three estimates if you believe that the cost is high. However, be sure that if one person comes in higher than the other that you ask the right questions about the type of material being used and the reputation of the company, just because it is cheaper does not mean that it is better. Sometimes the higher priced contractor is the one you want to go with because of their reputation as a well-known contractor and because of the quality of the material they are using.
Call Amherst Roofing of Naples, FL today for more information on your roofing needs.
Amherst Roofing serves Naples, FL, Marco Island, Bonita Beach, Golden Gate and Estero.
Amherst Roofing serves all of Collier County and Lee County in Florida.
Call today at 239-359-1133.
- The main goal of a roof is to protect your home from water and other elements. While no two roofs are identical and there are variables in the installation process, there are a few basic steps common to all roofing projects.
- The first and perhaps the most important step is choosing a contractor. Make sure the contractor is licensed and insured. Your roof is a major investment and you want the job done right the first time. You should feel confident as well as comfortable with your choice.
- Choose the type of roof you want, whether it is shingle, metal, or tile. Discuss your options with the contractor and weigh pros and cons of each type.
- The foundation of the roof will be inspected to insure it is sound and in good condition. Any damaged wood will be repaired or replaced.
- Felt underlayment is the next “layer” in the roofing process and should be uniform and smooth. If not applied properly, the shingles will not lay properly.
- Metal work. Chimneys, vents, and skylights should be flashed and counterflashed to keep water out. A metal drip edge is installed around all perimeter edges, and properly mitered corners and proper lapping is a detail that should not be overlooked.
- Shingle Application. There is more to the installation than hammering a nail through a shingle. Attention to detail is important and cannot be overemphasized. A starter row should be installed, chalk lines should be used to insure straight lines, and shingling the valleys properly is a must. Ridges and hips are capped to prevent water from entering where adjacent roof angles meet. All these factors combine to make your roof impervious to water.
- Cleanup. Once the job is complete, a final inspection and cleanup is done.
Amherst Roofing will be happy to provide an initial consultation to discuss the entire roofing process with you.
Call us today for a free estimate at 239-354-1133.
A: All too often, roof system problems are discovered after leaking or other serious damage occurs. Periodic (twice-a-year) inspections often can uncover cracked, warped or missing shingles; loose seams and deteriorated flashings; excessive surface granules accumulating in the gutters or downspouts; and other visible signs of roof system problems. Indoors, look for cracked paint, discolored plasterboard and peeling wallpaper as signs of damaged roof areas.
Q: What are my options if I decide to reroof?
A: You have two basic options: You can choose a complete replacement of the roof system, involving a tear-off of your existing roof system, or re-cover the existing roof system, involving only the installation of a new roof system. If you’ve already had one re-cover installed on your original roof system, check with a professional roofing contractor. In many instances, building code requirements allow no more than one roof system re-cover before a complete replacement is necessary.
Q: My roof leaks. Do I need to have it replaced completely?
A: Not necessarily. Leaks can result from flashings that have come loose or a section of the roof system being damaged. A complete roof system failure, however, generally is irreversible and a result of improper installation or choice of materials or the roof system installation is inappropriate for the home or building.
Q: Can I do the work myself?
A: Most work should not be done yourself. Professional roofing contractors are trained to safely and efficiently repair or replace roof systems. You can damage your roof system by using improper roofing techniques and severely injure yourself by falling off or through the roof.
Maintenance performed by home and building owners should be confined to inspecting roof systems during the fall and spring to check for cracked or curling shingles and cleaning gutters filled with dead leaves and other debris. If you must inspect your roof system yourself, use a firmly braced or tied-off ladder equipped with rubber safety feet. Wear rubber-soled shoes and stay on the ladder (and off the roof system), if possible.
Q: How long can I expect my roof system to last?
A: Most new roof systems are designed to provide useful service for about 20 years. Some roof system types, such as slate, clay tile and certain metal (e.g., copper) systems, can last longer.
Actual roof system life span is determined by a number of factors, including local climatic and environmental conditions, proper building and roof system design, material quality and suitability, proper application and adequate roof maintenance.
Roofing product manufacturers offer a variety of warranties on their products. Take a close look at those warranties to see what responsibilities and financial obligations manufacturers will assume if their products fail to reach their expected lives.
Q: What will a new roof system cost?
A: The price of a new roof system varies widely, depending on such things as the materials selected, contractor doing the work, home or building, location of the home or building, local labor rates and time of year. To get a good idea of price for your roof system, get three or four proposals from reputable contractors in your area. Keep in mind that price is only one factor, and it must be balanced with the quality of the materials and workmanship.
For each roofing material, there are different grades and corresponding prices. There also are a variety of styles and shapes. You need to look at the full product range and make a choice based on your budget and needs.
Within the roofing profession, there are different levels of expertise and craftsmanship. Insist on a contractor who is committed to quality work.
Q: How can I determine my annual roofing cost?
A: When considering your roofing options, the following formula may help:
Total Cost (Materials and Labor) ÷ Life Expectancy of Roof System (in years) = Annual Roofing Cost
Although the strip shingle and the laminated shingle account for 95% of all shingle roofs, there are numerous alternatives including hail resistant shingles and specialty roofing shingles.
Types of Roofing Shingles Used in Naples, Florida
3-tab Composition Shingles are by far the most commonly used shingle in America. They have a 20 year warranty and are the most inexpensive roofing material available. Their chief attributes are low price, ease of application and wide selection of available colors. Their disadvantages are relatively short life expectancy and their plain, unadorned appearance. This roof appearance consists of identical 5″ X 12″ rectangles repeating endlessly across the roof.
Laminated Shingles start off with much the same construction as a 3-tab or strip shingle but then an extra layer of material cut into a saw-tooth pattern is glued on (or laminated) to the exposed portion of the shingle. This makes the shingle thicker and longer lasting. In addition, multiple variations in the saw-toothed give the shingle a varied thatched-like appearance so that the roof does not show any repeating pattern. This combination of extra thickness and random appearance is much more successful in hiding the defects in the roof deck and is one of these shingles main attributes. While these shingles are considerably different, as a class, from the 3-tab shingles there is little or no difference in appearance between the 30, 40 and 50 year versions.
Hail Resistant Shingles also come in both 3-tab and laminated styles. However the 3-tab style carries a 30 year warranty and the laminated style carries the 50 year warranty. These shingles do not appear any different to the naked eye from the regular 3-tab and laminated shingles. However they are manufactured using a special asphalt called modified bitumen, which contains 2 types of special chemical modifiers known as elastifiers and UV blockers.
Specialty Shingles – Although specialty shingles only account for 2-3% of the composition shingle market there is a large number of different types and styles to choose from. There are shingles embossed with a wood grain, shingles designed to look like slate, extremely heavy and thick shingles, shingles with multiple layers of laminate and even copper plated shingles.
The Roofing Shingles Installation Process
- Complete removal of the existing roof system including shingles, tile, asphalt sealants, boots, vents, and fasteners.
- Remove and replace any and all rotted roof sheathing throughout entire roof area.
- Remove and replace any and all rotted fascia board that is accessible without the removal of exterior structures.
- Refasten entire roof deck using 8d ring shank nails to “code plus” strength. *Note: this step may qualify for insurance reductions. (Options available)
- Install new modified rubber self-adhered leak barrier underlayment to entire roof surface. *Note: use of this underlayment may qualify for a reduction on your insurance. (Options available)
- Install new modified rubber flat roof membrane at dead valley / wall up-step / chimney / cricket detail areas, fastened, masticsized, and anchored to wall using fascia/cap anchor bar, where applicable.
- Install new modified rubber flat roof membrane at flat roof tie-in, fastened and masticsized, where applicable.
- Install new velux, self-flashed, all in one tempered glass hurricane rated, leak proof skylights over existing openings, fastened and masticsized where applicable. (Options available)
- Install new lead boots over plumbing stacks, fastened and masticsized, where applicable.
- Install new vents over kitchen, dryer, and bathroom exhaust openings, fastened and masticsized, where applicable.
- Install new pre-painted drip edge flashings entire perimeter of roof, fastened and masticsized. Color as per customer choice – 4 available.
- Install new valley metal down all valley areas, fastened and masticsized where applicable.
- Paint all boots and vents to match shingle color where applicable.
- Install special high wind resistant starter-strip shingles at perimeter of roof area, fastened and masticsized. (Options available)
- Shingle entire roof area using gafelk timberline prestique ultra high definition asphalt / fiberglass, fungus resistant shingles, nailed six (6) nails per shingle. (Options available)
- Install special high wind resistant, gafelk seal-a-ridge cap shingles at all crown and hip areas, fastened. (Options available)
- Install new solar powered attic ventilators with thermostat control, Shingle Ridge Vent or Shingle Off Ridge Vent to achieve proper attic ventilation. (Options available)
- Clean up and remove all debris. Use magnet to remove fasteners from lawn.
A. All too often, roof system problems are discovered after leaking or other serious damage occurs. Periodic (twice-a-year) inspections often can uncover cracked, warped or missing shingles; loose seams and deteriorated flashings; excessive surface granules accumulating in the gutters or downspouts; and other visible signs of roof problems. Indoors, look for cracked paint, discolored plasterboard, and peeling wallpaper as signs of damaged roof areas.
Q. What are my options if I decide to reroof?
A. You have two basic options: You can choose a complete replacement of the roof system, involving a tear-off of the old roof, or a re-cover over the existing roof, involving only the installation of a new membrane and surfacing. If you’ve already had one re-cover over your original roof, check with a professional roofing contractor to see if your deck can support a second re-cover.
Q. My roof leaks. Do I need to have it totally replaced?
A. Not necessarily. Leaking can result because some flashings have come loose or a section of the roof system has been damaged. A roof system failure, however, generally is irreversible and results from improper installation or choice of materials or from the installation of a roof system inappropriate for the building.
Q. Can’t I just do the work myself?
A. Most work should not be do-it-yourself. Professional roofing contractors are trained to safely and efficiently repair or replace a roof system. Novices can harm a roof with improper roofing techniques and severely injure themselves by falling off or even through a roof in need of repair or replacement.
Home owner maintenance should be confined to roof system inspections in the fall and spring to check for cracked or curling shingles and to cleaning rain gutters filled with dead leaves and other debris. If you must see the roof for yourself, use a firmly braced or tied-off ladder equipped with rubber safety feet. Wear rubber-soled shoes and stay on the ladder (and off the roof), if possible.
Q. How long can I expect my roof system to last?
A. The condition and lifespan of your roof system will depend on the type of roof system you have, the effects of your local environment, and the maintenance the roof system has received. According to the American Society of Home Inspectors, asphalt shingles generally last 15 to 20 years; wood shingle/shakes, 10 to 40 years; clay/concrete tiles, 20+ years; slate, 30 to 100 years; and metal roofing, 15 to 40+ years.
Roofing product manufacturers offer a variety of warranties on their products. Take a close look at those warranties to see what responsibilities and financial obligations they will assume if their products fail to reach their expected lifetimes.
Q. What will a new roof system cost?
A. The price of a new roof system varies widely, depending on the material selected, the contractor doing the work, the home itself, location of the home or building, local labor rates, time of year, and more. To get a good idea of the cost for your roof system, get three or four estimates from reputable contractors in your area. Keep in mind that cost is only one factor, and it must be balanced with the quality of the materials and workmanship.
For each roofing material, there are different grades—and corresponding prices. Plus, there are a variety of styles and shapes. You need to look at the full product range and make a choice based on your budget and needs.
Within the roofing profession, there are different levels of expertise and craftsmanship. Pick a contractor who is committed to quality work.
Q. How can I determine my annual cost?
A. When mulling over your roofing options, the following formula may help:
Total Cost (materials and labor) ÷ Life Expectancy of Roof (in years) = Annual Cost
Call Amherst Roofing of Naples, Florida today for more information about your Roofing Needs. Amherst Roofing has been serving all of Collier County and Lee County since 1987.
Call today at 239-359-1133 or
visit us at: www.amherstroofingnaples.com
Q. How much will my new roof cost?
A. The cost of your roof will depend on its size, shape, slope and the number of existing roof layers, along with the materials you choose for the roof. We’ll be happy to provide you with a free estimate.
Q. Do you charge for estimates?
A. No, we provide written estimates free of charge.
Q. What is the best type of roofing material for my home?
A. We will inspect your home to determine the best methods, materials, warranties, and prices for your home. Amherst Roofing installs Shingle Roofs, Tile Roof, Flat Roofs, Metal Roofs and much more, giving you a wide variety of choices. After a bad storm that has Roof Damage all that may be required are some Roof Repairs. Amherst Roofing of Naples, Florida will inspect your roof and give you your best options.
Q. Can you install a new roof over the existing roof?
A. Yes, but the preferred method is to remove the old roof. Removal allows for inspection of the substrate, and the elimination of any wet, rough, and/or unstable existing materials.
Q. What do you do with debris from my old roof?
A. All debris is taken to the landfill and disposed of properly. After your roof is repaired or replaces our crew will always clean up all debris around your home.
Q. What kind of roofing warranties will I get?
A. Material warranties are usually issued by the manufacturers for periods of five (5) to fifty (50) years, depending on the type of roof you choose. We will discuss with you all your options and manufacture warranties. Amherst Roofing also offers our own guarantee of workmanship.
Q. Will you make a mess of my property?
A. Roofing can be messy, but neatness is very important to us. We protect shrubs, landscaping and the surround yard, and clean our work area and the surround yard area at the conclusion of every workday.
Q. How long will it take to install my roof?
A. Most residential roofs can be replaced in one day if you choose a shingle roof. Metal Roofs and Tile Roofs require more time and depending on the size of your roof. If additional days are required, we’ll secure your home against the weather overnight.
Q. Can I choose my own roof color?
A. It used to be you had a very limited choice in colors for shingles or tile. Today’s roofs, however, are available in a much wider array of colors and styles, in shingle, tile or metal.
GET A FREE ESTIMATE FOR ROOFING REPAIRS OR A NEW ROOF IN THE COLLIER COUNTY, FLORIDA AREA BY AMHERST ROOFING TODAY.
SERVING ALL OF SOUTHWEST FLORIDA SINCE 1987.
CALL US TODAY AT 239-354-1133
Amherst Roofing of Naples, Florida
There are a number of things to consider when selecting a new roof system. Of course, cost and durability head the list, but aesthetics and architectural style are important, too. The right roof system is the one that balances these four considerations.
Asphalt shingles—which possess an overwhelming share of the U.S. residential roofing market—can be reinforced with either organic or fiberglass materials. Although shingles reinforced with organic felts have been around much longer, fiberglass-reinforced products now dominate the market.
Organic shingles consist of a cellulose-fiber (i.e., wood) base that is saturated with asphalt and coated with colored mineral granules. To fight fungus growth in warm, wet climates, they are available with special algicide granules.
Fiberglass shingles consist of a fiberglass mat, top-and-bottom layers of asphalt, and mineral granules. Typically, a fiberglass mat offers greater durability, but its manufacture is important.
The fire resistance of asphalt shingles, like most other roofing materials, is categorized by Underwriters Laboratories Inc. (UL) Class A, B, or C. Class A is the most fire-resistant, while Classes B and C have less fire resistance. Generally, most fiberglass shingles have Class A fire ratings, and most organic shingles have Class C ratings. UL Class A fire ratings are available for certain products that incorporate a factory-applied, fire-resistant treatment.
A shingle’s reinforcement will have little effect on its appearance. Both organic and fiberglass products are available in laminated (architectural) grades that offer a textured appearance. Zinc or copper-coated ceramic granules also can be applied to either organic or fiberglass products to protect against algae attack, a common problem in hot, humid climates. Both types of shingles also are available in a variety of colors.
Wood shingles and shakes are made from cedar, redwood, southern pine, and other woods. Shingles are machine-sawn; shakes are hand-hewn and rougher looking. Their natural look is popular in California, the Northwest, and parts of the Midwest. A point to consider: Some local building codes limit their use because of concerns about fire resistance. Many wood shingles and shakes only have a UL Class C fire rating (or no rating at all).
Tile—clay or concrete—is a durable but fairly expensive roofing material. “Mission-style” and “Spanish” round-topped tiles are used widely in the Southwest and Florida, and flat styles also are available to create French and English looks. Tile is available in a variety of colors and finishes. Note: Tile is heavy. If you are replacing another type of roof system with tile, you will need to verify that the structure will support the load.
Slate is quarried in places such as Vermont, New York, Pennsylvania, Virginia, and Canada. It comes in different colors and grades, depending on its origin. Considered virtually indestructible, it is, however, more expensive than other roofing materials. In addition, its application requires skill and experience. Many old homes in the Northeast still are protected by this long-lasting roofing material.
Metal, primarily thought of as a commercial roofing material, has been found to be an attractive roofing alternative for home owners. There are a variety of metal shingles intended to simulate traditional roof coverings, such as wood shakes, shingles, and tile. Apart from metal roofing’s longevity, metal shingles are relatively lightweight, typically have a Class A fire rating, have a greater resistance to adverse weather, and can be aesthetically pleasing.
Synthetic roof products simulate various types of traditional roof coverings, such as slate and wood shingles and shakes. A point to consider: Although synthetic roof products may simulate the appearance of traditional roof coverings, they do not necessarily have the same properties.
We recommend that you look at full-size samples of the proposed product, along with manufacturers’ brochures, or visit a building that is roofed with that product before making a buying decision.
All roof systems have five basic components:
Roof structure: the rafters and trusses constructed to support the sheathing.
Deck/sheathing: the boards or sheet material that are fastened to the roof rafters to cover a house.
Underlayment: a sheet of asphalt-saturated material used as a secondary layer of protection for the roof deck.
Roof covering: shingles, tiles, etc., that protect the sheathing from weather.
Drainage: the features of the roof system’s design, such as shape, slope, layout, etc., that affect its ability to shed water.
Flashing: sheet metal or other material laid into the various joints and valleys of a roof system to prevent water seepage.
Call Amherst Roofing of Naples, Florida for a free estimate.
We Serve all of Naples, Florida.
Amherst Roofing also serves all of Bonita Springs, Marco Island, Estero, Fort Myers and Golden Gate.
Basically we serve all of South West Florida.
Visit us at: www.AmherstRoofingNaples.com
Seven Most Common Questions Asked
Q. How can I know when a roof system has problems?
A. All too often, roof system problems are discovered after leaking or other serious damage occurs. Periodic (twice-a-year) inspections often can uncover cracked, warped or missing shingles; loose seams and deteriorated flashings; excessive surface granules accumulating in the gutters or downspouts; and other visible signs of roof problems. Indoors, look for cracked paint, discolored plasterboard, and peeling wallpaper as signs of damaged roof areas.
Q. What are my options if I decide to reroof?
A. You have two basic options: You can choose a complete replacement of the roof system, involving a tear-off of the old roof, or a re-cover over the existing roof, involving only the installation of a new membrane and surfacing. If you’ve already had one re-cover over your original roof, check with a professional roofing contractor to see if your deck can support a second re-cover.
Q. My roof leaks. Do I need to have it totally replaced?
A. Not necessarily. Leaking can result because some flashings have come loose or a section of the roof system has been damaged. A roof system failure, however, generally is irreversible and results from improper installation or choice of materials or from the installation of a roof system inappropriate for the building.
Q. Can’t I just do the work myself?
A. Most work should not be do-it-yourself. Professional roofing contractors are trained to safely and efficiently repair or replace a roof system. Novices can harm a roof with improper roofing techniques and severely injure themselves by falling off or even through a roof in need of repair or replacement.
Home owner maintenance should be confined to roof system inspections in the fall and spring to check for cracked or curling shingles and to cleaning rain gutters filled with dead leaves and other debris. If you must see the roof for yourself, use a firmly braced or tied-off ladder equipped with rubber safety feet. Wear rubber-soled shoes and stay on the ladder (and off the roof), if possible.
Q. How long can I expect my roof system to last?
A. The condition and lifespan of your roof system will depend on the type of roof system you have, the effects of your local environment, and the maintenance the roof system has received. According to the American Society of Home Inspectors, asphalt shingles generally last 15 to 20 years; wood shingle/shakes, 10 to 40 years; clay/concrete tiles, 20+ years; slate, 30 to 100 years; and metal roofing, 15 to 40+ years.
Roofing product manufacturers offer a variety of warranties on their products. Take a close look at those warranties to see what responsibilities and financial obligations they will assume if their products fail to reach their expected lifetimes.
Q. What will a new roof system cost?
A. The price of a new roof system varies widely, depending on the material selected, the contractor doing the work, the home itself, location of the home or building, local labor rates, time of year, and more. To get a good idea of the cost for your roof system, get three or four estimates from reputable contractors in your area. Keep in mind that cost is only one factor, and it must be balanced with the quality of the materials and workmanship.
For each roofing material, there are different grades—and corresponding prices. Plus, there are a variety of styles and shapes. You need to look at the full product range and make a choice based on your budget and needs.
Within the roofing profession, there are different levels of expertise and craftsmanship. Pick a contractor who is committed to quality work.
Q. How can I determine my annual cost?
A. When mulling over your roofing options, the following formula may help:
Total Cost (materials and labor) ÷ Life Expectancy of Roof (in years) = Annual Cost
Amherst Roofing of Naples, Florida which serves all of Collier and Lee County is available to answer any questions you may have about any Roofing Needs.
Our Company has been serving Naples, FL for over 30 years.
Call today at: 239-594-1133.
WHAT ARE THE OPTIONS?
There are a number of things to consider when selecting a new roof system. Of course, cost and durability head the list, but aesthetics and architectural style are important, too. The right roof system is the one that balances these four considerations.
Asphalt shingles—which possess an overwhelming share of the U.S. residential roofing market—can be reinforced with either organic or fiberglass materials. Although shingles reinforced with organic felts have been around much longer, fiberglass-reinforced products now dominate the market.
Organic shingles consist of a cellulose-fiber (i.e., wood) base that is saturated with asphalt and coated with colored mineral granules. To fight fungus growth in warm, wet climates, they are available with special algicide granules.
Fiberglass shingles consist of a fiberglass mat, top-and-bottom layers of asphalt, and mineral granules. Typically, a fiberglass mat offers greater durability, but its manufacture is important.
The fire resistance of asphalt shingles, like most other roofing materials, is categorized by Underwriters Laboratories Inc. (UL) Class A, B, or C. Class A is the most fire-resistant, while Classes B and C have less fire resistance. Generally, most fiberglass shingles have Class A fire ratings, and most organic shingles have Class C ratings. UL Class A fire ratings are available for certain products that incorporate a factory-applied, fire-resistant treatment.
A shingle’s reinforcement will have little effect on its appearance. Both organic and fiberglass products are available in laminated (architectural) grades that offer a textured appearance. Zinc or copper-coated ceramic granules also can be applied to either organic or fiberglass products to protect against algae attack, a common problem in hot, humid climates. Both types of shingles also are available in a variety of colors.
Wood shingles and shakes are made from cedar, redwood, southern pine, and other woods. Shingles are machine-sawn; shakes are hand-hewn and rougher looking. Their natural look is popular in California, the Northwest, and parts of the Midwest. A point to consider: Some local building codes limit their use because of concerns about fire resistance. Many wood shingles and shakes only have a UL Class C fire rating (or no rating at all).
Tile—clay or concrete—is a durable but fairly expensive roofing material. “Mission-style” and “Spanish” round-topped tiles are used widely in the Southwest and Florida, and flat styles also are available to create French and English looks. Tile is available in a variety of colors and finishes. Note: Tile is heavy. If you are replacing another type of roof system with tile, you will need to verify that the structure will support the load.
Slate is quarried in places such as Vermont, New York, Pennsylvania, Virginia, and Canada. It comes in different colors and grades, depending on its origin. Considered virtually indestructible, it is, however, more expensive than other roofing materials. In addition, its application requires skill and experience. Many old homes in the Northeast still are protected by this long-lasting roofing material.
Metal, primarily thought of as a commercial roofing material, has been found to be an attractive roofing alternative for home owners. There are a variety of metal shingles intended to simulate traditional roof coverings, such as wood shakes, shingles, and tile. Apart from metal roofing’s longevity, metal shingles are relatively lightweight, typically have a Class A fire rating, have a greater resistance to adverse weather, and can be aesthetically pleasing.
Synthetic roof products simulate various types of traditional roof coverings, such as slate and wood shingles and shakes. A point to consider: Although synthetic roof products may simulate the appearance of traditional roof coverings, they do not necessarily have the same properties.
We recommend that you look at full-size samples of the proposed product, along with manufacturers’ brochures, or visit a building that is roofed with that product before making a buying decision.
Call Amherst Roofing today for a Free Estimate at 239-594-1133.
By state Law, all roof installations must be done by a licensed contractor in Florida. The license number must appear on trucks and advertising. If you are in doubt, call The Department of Business & Professional regulation 1-850-487-1395, or visit www.myfloridalicense.com. Check all forms of identification. An occupational or Business tax license does not qualify an individual to act as a roofing contractor.
Check with County and local building departments. Check with the county building department where you reside and if applicable, the town/city in which you live for specific requirements and contractor history.
Check contractor references. All reputable contractors that have performed work in a close geographical proximity to your home should provide references. Be wary of the claims that they are a “New” contractor or are from “Out of the area”.
Get a written estimate from a few licensed contractors meeting these guidelines. Do not accept verbal commitments, and beware of the fine print on many contracts. Completion time needs to be addressed, materials must be identified and have “Product Approval” as required by the building code, and when comparing prices, make sure the roof systems being proposed are equal. Underlayments vary, as do adhesives, methods, and fastening procedures. All must be clearly identified. Significant delays in getting the materials for your project may be a red flag for the contractor’s financial stability and/or track record. Ask the contractor about their employees. Are they employees or subcontractors? Using “Out of town” subcontractors became popular after the past few storm seasons. This may compromise quality.
Beware of sales pitches and dishonest individuals. If the contractor claims to be the fastest and the cheapest, hiring them may result in poor workmanship, inferior materials, or unfinished jobs. Unlicensed contractors target the uninformed or elderly an often go door to door frequently traveling in either “Unmarked” vehicles or using portable signs temporarily stuck to the side of the vehicle. They may offer a post office box in lieu of a physical street address.
Does the contractor have the proper insurance? Roofing is a tough, risky business where injuries and damage claims occur. Professional contractors will maintain insurance to properly cover their employees and customers. Ask to see copies, and verify current coverage with the listed insurance agent. Policies should be in the name of the company proposing the work, not an individual or company officer.
Make sure the contractor gets the building permits. Every installation requires permits and inspections by the local building officials. Ask to see the permits when they are obtained, and evidence of all completed inspections prior to making “Final” payment.
Contracts should include: The contractors name, address, telephone number and state license number, along with a precise description of the work to be completed; including a schedule, list of materials, cleanup provisions, and all warranty agreements. Wood fastening and replacement, if applicable, should be identified both in quantity and cost.
TYPES OF ROOF COVERING
There are many types of Roof systems available to the Homeowner today. It can get confusing because unprofessional or unlicensed contractors prefer to market products that allow them to bid “Cheaper”, or provide “Faster” production, regardless if the products provide the waterproofing capability or longevity that the homeowner desires.
After the removal of the “Old” roof system, and all rotten wood has been replaced, the wood should be refastened in accordance with the requirements of the building code. When this is completed, the inspector will usually perform an inspection and make a notation on the permit document. The next step is the installation of the underlayments, which is where the differences in types of material and methods get confusing.
Underlayment, is “An asphalt-saturated felt or other sheet material (may be self-adhering) installed between the roof deck and the roof system, usually in a steep-slope roof construction. Underlayment is primarily used to separate the roof covering from the roof deck, to shed water, and to provide secondary weather protection for the roof area of the building”.
With the recent building code changes and insurance industry requirements, the underlayment of your roof system is critical. The underlayment can be the most important factor in determining the longevity and waterproofing capability of your new roof system.
The discrepancies and expected performance of a two-ply hot mopped underlayment system, or a single application of self adhering underlayment system, need to be investigated using the sources provided. The homeowner should have a clear understanding of the differences, pros and cons of each, and the cost differential. The “2-ply” hot mopped system has been around for years, and is the old standard where you have a crew mechanically fasten a dry-in sheet, followed by a heavier sheet installed in an application of hot asphalt. Installed properly, this system will provide many years of leak free waterproofing. It is generically similar to the systems used on many commercial flat roof applications for over a century. The “Self-Adhering” underlayment, also called “Peel-and-Stick”, is relatively new compared with the hot-asphalt system, and often is installed directly to the wood sheathing, eliminating the mechanically fastened “Dry-in” sheet. It is installed by removing the contact paper from the rear of the sheet, then setting the sheet in place and “Sticking” it down to the wood sheathing. Installers should be professionally trained to assure the correct installation procedures and detail requirements. When installed properly, this underlayment can also provide many years of leak-free service.
Roof covering choices
Asphalt composition Shingles: The composite asphalt shingle roof system for many of us is what we grew up with in the northern geographical areas, prior to our jump down to Florida for the warmer climate. The asphalt shingle is comprised of shingle strips that get overlapped and nailed to the roof deck thru the underlayment. There are many types on the market today, allowing the homeowner a vast number of choices in color, design, and thickness. The material composition has improved over the past several years, increasing the shingles ability to resist fungus growth, and more importantly; provide greater wind resistance.
Caldwell Roofing
Concrete/Clay Tile: Tile roofs are a popular choice of roof covering in South Florida and they have been for decades. Roof tile is made up of concrete or clay, and comes in many shapes, sizes, and colors. The installation method for tile has varied over the years, from using a concrete mixture as the primary method of adhesion, to nails and/or screws, and more recently to the use of a “Foam” adhesive. There is a cost difference associated with the different installation methods, as is their ability to resist wind. The “Product Approvals”, as mentioned earlier, are required by government agencies during the permitting process and indicate the wind “Uplift” pressure designs for each method. This information can be helpful in providing the homeowner with a better understanding of the pros and cons to specific methods, but also can be confusing. Discuss these methods with your professional contractor. Additionally, the major tile manufacturers have extensive information available through their customer service phone lines and their websites, where you can also get an idea of the different shapes and colors of available tile. The shape of Roof tile generally is either flat, or provides a rounded peak. The rounded (“Roll”, “Spanish S”, “Barrel”) tile has become popular in the past several years, especially with the new construction and real estate growth experienced in our area over the past decade. The difference in the rounded tiles is basically the size of the “Roll”, whether it’s a couple of small rounded Peaks (Roll Tile) or 1 large rounded Peak (Spanish “S”). Barrel tile is the larger single ½ round tile that is installed over a bottom single ½ round tile, also called caps and pans. This is the most expensive and used less frequently than the others. The colors, shapes, and sizes purely dictate the overall cost and aesthetic appearance of the finished roof and should be reviewed extensively. The best way to get a clear picture of which tile would have a pleasing aesthetic appearance is to see the preferred tile installed on an actual home. Deciding on a tile from brochures or small samples does not provide an accurate representation of what a specific tile would look like on your home. Some tile manufacturers and professional contractors have showrooms, which give the homeowner the opportunity to see several types, styles, and colors of available tile, and also will provide guidance during the selection process.
Caldwell Roofing
Metal Roof Systems: We have witnessed a growth in metal roofing over the past several years. While used primarily in commercial applications up until a few years ago, metal roof manufacturers have introduced different systems to accommodate different architectural appearances for homeowners. Metal “Panel” systems have a “Flat” panel style appearance, similar to what is often termed the “Key West” style, while some recent products provide either a “Tile” look, or a dimensional look with textured surfaces that look similar in design to concrete or clay tile. Reviewing these roof systems should be done in the same manner in which the tile selection process is outlined above.
Caldwell Roofing
Wood “Shake” shingles: Wood shingles, or “Shakes”, are wood shingles made from cedar. They provide a more rustic appearance to a residence than any of the previously mentioned styles of roof coverings. They are installed using nails thru the underlayment system. Although not as common as years ago, in certain geographic areas the appearance is desired, and when maintained properly, cedar shakes can provide years of service. In today’s marketplace, there are also manufacturers that offer products made from composite materials that aesthetically resemble cedar shakes, without the costs associated with the maintenance of real wood.
Bottom line
There are a vast number of contractors, materials, and manufacturers available to the homeowner. Following a couple of key steps outlined above when selecting a contractor, followed by a thorough investigation with regards to the specific roof type desired, can eliminate many of the questions and concerns that arise with such a significant purchase. With the current costs associated with roofing work, we are all wiser for spending a little more time to insure a “Value” added purchase…not simply a “Cheap” roof. For the large investment we are about to make, receiving the best possible system will provide peace of mind when summer time rolls around.
Call Amherst Roofing today for a Free Estimate at 239-594-1133.
Amherst Roofing serves all of Collier County, Florida and Lee County of Florida. Located in Naples, Florida.
Roofing FAQ
At Amherst Roofing we are committed to the highest level of customer service. This includes open, honest and frequent communications with our customers. We encourage your questions and enjoy answering them. Here are some of the questions we hear most frequently.
Q. How much will my new roof cost?
A. The cost of your roof will depend on its size, shape, slope and the number of existing roof layers, along with the materials you choose for the roof. We’ll be happy to provide a free estimate the same day we come to inspect your roof.
Q. Do you charge for estimates?
A. No, we provide written estimates free of charge.
Q. What is the best type of roofing material for my home?
A. We will inspect your home to determine the best methods, materials, warranties, and prices for your home. Amherst Roofing can install shingles, tiles or metal roofing systems, giving you a wide variety of choices. We also can repair flat roofs and much more.
Q. Can you install a new roof over the existing roof?
A. Yes, but the preferred method is to remove the old roof. Removal allows for inspection of the substrate, and the elimination of any wet, rough, and/or unstable existing materials.
Q. What do you do with debris from my old roof?
A. All debris is haules away to the landfill and disposed of properly.
Q. What kind of roofing warranties will I get?
A. Material warranties are usually issued by the manufacturers for periods of five (5) to fifty (50) years, depending on the materials. Amherst Roofing also offers our own guarantee of workmanship.
Q. Will you make a mess of my property?
A. Roofing can be messy, but neatness is very important to us. We protect shrubs, landscaping and the surround yard, and clean our work area and the surround yard area at the conclusion of every workday.
Q. How long will it take to install my roof?
A. Most residential roofs can be replaced in one day. If additional days are required, we’ll secure your home against the weather overnight.
Q. Can I choose my own roof color?
A. It used to be you had a very limited choice in colors for shingles or tile. Today’s roofs, however, are available in a much wider array of colors and styles, in shingle, tile or metal.
Amherst Roofing provides free estimates for all types
Trust the roofing contractors AMHERST ROOFING for high quality, service and value.
Call Amherst Roofing today at: 239-594-1133 to schedule a FREE roof checkup and a Free Roof Estimate.
1. When purchasing a roofing job, what should I expect?
Answer: The roofers will come out, remove your old roof, install a new roof and clean up after themselves.
2. It seems pretty simple, but what can go wrong?
Answer: You can sign a contract, pay a down payment and never see the roofer again or you can sign a contract, they deliver the materials on your roof, set a dumpster in the front of your garage and you never see them again. There are many variations on this scheme, all with the same result. Hopefully, the scheme plays itself out before your roof is torn off and your house is exposed.
3. What can I do to protect myself?
Answer: Do not hire anyone who is not licensed, bonded and insured, and never hire anyone who does not have an advertisement in the yellow pages. Select a contractor that has operated in your community for at least ten years. Do not give any money for work that has not been already done. Always ask for a release of lien before paying your balance. Always ask for a material vendors release of lien before paying your bill.
4. What if the contractor tells me that they did not put a lien on my house?
Answer: The materials vendor can send a Notice To Owner within 45 days of the last materials he supplied for your home. He then has one year to file a lien. Get a release for any materials that should have been used on your house.
5. Are all roofing contractors listed in the yellow pages licensed, bonded and insured?
Answer: No, they are supposed to be, but the yellow pages does not verify this information. Usually the ads are very misleading, to find out the real story on someone, go to MyFlorida.com. You may find that someone who advertises they have been in business in Florida since 1960, was born in 1960, opened in 1985, was out of business in 1987, reopened again in 1988 then out of business again in 1990, etc. Always ask for at least three references and call them.
6. Is a permit required and if so how can I verify one was purchased?
Answer: In order to buy a permit, the contractor needs a Notice of Commencement signed and notarized by the owner if the work is started without one, start to worry. Most contractors will run the legal for you and provide a notary to come to your home and notarize your signature. They then file the Notice of Commencement and purchase the permit. The permit should be posted on your home for you to see. If you are unsure, call the building department and make sure a permit was purchased before you pay your bill.
7. How can I tell if my roofer is licensed?
Answer: Ask to see their roofing license. It should either be a State Certified Roofing Licensed or a Local Roofing License; an Occupational License is not a Roofing License, but it is required to purchase a Roofing License. You cannot legally pull a permit, or do a roofing job without a Roofing License. If in doubt call the Building Department or check www.MyFlorida.com.
8. What does it mean to be Bonded and Insured?
Answer: In order to have a license, you must post a bond. The theory behind the bond is to insure that if you damage someone’s home, the homeowner can go to the bonding company for repair costs. The problem is that the cost of the bond has not kept up with inflation. If someone does three to four million dollars annually and you are number fifteen on the list, a 10,000.00 bond will not go far.Everyone is supposed to have liability insurance, unfortunately, there is no real check to make sure that they do not have a 100,000.00 liability policy with a 50,000.00 deductible or if once the license was purchased the insurance policy was cancelled. Ask to see the policy. Insurance companies will provide a copy of the policy for free.
9. Can I get someone to do my home with a Worker’s Compensation Exemption?
Answer: Yes, anyone who is incorporated and has three people or less, all three of the owners can be exempt. However, Worker’s Compensation on owners is inexpensive, only fifteen to twenty percent. Foremen cost less as well, only the roofers who are really at risk are expensive and even then the cost is less than fifty percent. There is also a Drug Free Workplace discount and a five percent Safety discount, and they are a member of FRSA’s (Florida Roofing and Sheet Medal Association) Self Insurance Program, there are mid year and year end discounts. Usually, the average bottom line cost is under thirty percent.
10. I understand that Worker’s Compensation Insurance is very expensive. Aren’t most serious accidents on large Commercial projects?
Answer: Studies have shown that most serious injuries per dollar volume happen to small residential crews. Why leave your home exposed? Make sure your contractor carries Worker’sCompensation insurance. The cost of Worker’s Compensation is less than ten percent of the total cost of the roof, so why take the chance?
11. How do I know which roof to buy?
Answer: Let your roofing professional help you.
Here Are Some Guidelines:
Every neighborhood has a basis for your roof. Most asphalt shingles in Florida last about half of the marketed warranty. So, a thirty-year warranty would really only last about fifteen years.There are some shingles that carry a very long extended warranty. They are not perfect, but if you are careful and close the loopholes, they might be a good investment.
For more information call Amherst Roofing at: 239-594-1133.
Amherst Roofing has been serving Naples, Marco Island, Bonita Springs and all of Lee and Collier Counties since 1987.
Call today for a free estimate.
Listed below are some of the most thought questions.
1. When purchasing a roofing job, what should I expect?
Answer: The roofers will come out, remove your old roof, install a new roof and clean up after themselves.
2. It seems pretty simple, but what can go wrong?
Answer: You can sign a contract, pay a down payment and never see the roofer again or you can sign a contract, they deliver the materials on your roof, set a dumpster in the front of your garage and you never see them again. There are many variations on this scheme, all with the same result. Hopefully, the scheme plays itself out before your roof is torn off and your house is exposed.
3. What can I do to protect myself?
Answer: Do not hire anyone who is not licensed, bonded and insured, and never hire anyone who does not have an advertisement in the yellow pages. Select a contractor that has operated in your community for at least ten years. Do not give any money for work that has not been already done. Always ask for a release of lien before paying your balance. Always ask for a material vendors release of lien before paying your bill.
4. What if the contractor tells me that they did not put a lien on my house?
Answer: The materials vendor can send a Notice To Owner within 45 days of the last materials he supplied for your home. He then has one year to file a lien. Get a release for any materials that should have been used on your house.
5. Are all roofing contractors listed in the yellow pages licensed, bonded and insured?
Answer: No, they are supposed to be, but the yellow pages does not verify this information. Usually the ads are very misleading, to find out the real story on someone, go to MyFlorida.com. You may find that someone who advertises they have been in business in Florida since 1960, was born in 1960, opened in 1985, was out of business in 1987, reopened again in 1988 then out of business again in 1990, etc. Always ask for at least three references and call them.
6. Is a permit required and if so how can I verify one was purchased?
Answer: In order to buy a permit, the contractor needs a Notice of Commencement signed and notarized by the owner if the work is started without one, start to worry. Most contractors will run the legal for you and provide a notary to come to your home and notarize your signature. They then file the Notice of Commencement and purchase the permit. The permit should be posted on your home for you to see. If you are unsure, call the building department and make sure a permit was purchased before you pay your bill.
7. How can I tell if my roofer is licensed?
Answer: Ask to see their roofing license. It should either be a State Certified Roofing Licensed or a Local Roofing License; an Occupational License is not a Roofing License, but it is required to purchase a Roofing License. You cannot legally pull a permit, or do a roofing job without a Roofing License. If in doubt call the Building Department or check www.MyFlorida.com.
8. What does it mean to be Bonded and Insured?
Answer: In order to have a license, you must post a bond. The theory behind the bond is to insure that if you damage someone’s home, the homeowner can go to the bonding company for repair costs. The problem is that the cost of the bond has not kept up with inflation. If someone does three to four million dollars annually and you are number fifteen on the list, a 10,000.00 bond will not go far.Everyone is supposed to have liability insurance, unfortunately, there is no real check to make sure that they do not have a 100,000.00 liability policy with a 50,000.00 deductible or if once the license was purchased the insurance policy was cancelled. Ask to see the policy. Insurance companies will provide a copy of the policy for free.
9. Can I get someone to do my home with a Worker’s Compensation Exemption?
Answer: Yes, anyone who is incorporated and has three people or less, all three of the owners can be exempt. However, Worker’s Compensation on owners is inexpensive, only fifteen to twenty percent. Foremen cost less as well, only the roofers who are really at risk are expensive and even then the cost is less than fifty percent. There is also a Drug Free Workplace discount and a five percent Safety discount, and they are a member of FRSA’s (Florida Roofing and Sheet Medal Association) Self Insurance Program, there are mid year and year end discounts. Usually, the average bottom line cost is under thirty percent.
10. I understand that Worker’s Compensation Insurance is very expensive. Aren’t most serious accidents on large Commercial projects?
Answer: Studies have shown that most serious injuries per dollar volume happen to small residential crews. Why leave your home exposed? Make sure your contractor carries Worker’sCompensation insurance. The cost of Worker’s Compensation is less than ten percent of the total cost of the roof, so why take the chance?
11. How do I know which roof to buy?
Answer: Let your roofing professional help you.
Here Are Some Guidelines: Every neighborhood has a basis for your roof. Most asphalt shingles in Florida last about half of the marketed warranty. So, a thirty-year warranty would really only last about fifteen years.There are some shingles that carry a very long extended warranty. They are not perfect, but if you are careful and close the loopholes, they might be a good investment.
Amherst Roofing can answer all your roofing concerns, call us today at: 239-594-1133. We will discuss your concerns and provide you with a free estimate.
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Roofing Terms You Should Know:
Amherst Roofing, Inc. thought it would be a good idea if our customers knew some of our roofing terms.
Asphalt: A bituminous waterproofing agent applied to roofing materials during manufacturing. Asphalt plastic roofing cement: An asphalt based cement used to bond roofing materials, including flashing.
Base flashing: That portion of the flashing attached to or resting on the deck to direct the flow of water onto the roof covering.
Blisters: Bubbles that may appear on the surface of asphalt roofing after installation.
Built-up roof: A flat or low-sloped roof consisting of multiple layers of asphalt and ply sheets.
Butt edge: The lower edge of the shingle tabs.
Caulk: To fill a joint with mastic or asphalt cement to prevent leaks.
Coating: A layer of viscous asphalt applied to the base material into which granules or other surfacing is embedded.
Collar: Pre-formed flange placed over a vent pipe to seal the roof around the vent pipe opening. Sometimes called vent sleeve.
Counter flashing: That portion of the flashing attached to a vertical surface to prevent water from migrating behind the base flashing.
Course: A row of shingles or roll roofing running the length of the roof.
Cricket: A peaked saddle construction at the back of a chimney to prevent accumulation of snow and ice and to deflect water around the chimney.
Cutout: The open portions of a strip shingle between the tabs.
Deck: The surface installed over the supporting framing members to which the roofing is applied.
Dormer: A framed window unit projecting through the sloping plane of a roof.
Downspout: A pipe for draining water from roof gutters. Also known as a leader.
Drip edge: A non-corrosive, non-staining material used along the eaves and rakes to allow water run-off to drip clear of underlying construction.
Eaves: The horizontal, lower edge of a sloped roof.
Eave flashing: Additional layer of roofing material applied at the eaves to help prevent damage from water back-up.
Edging strips: Boards nailed along eaves and rakes after cutting back existing wood shingles to provide secure edges for reroofing with asphalt shingles.
Feathering strips: Tapered wood filler strips placed along the butts of old wood shingles to create a level surface when reroofing over existing wood shingle roofs.
Felt: Fibrous material saturated with asphalt and used as an underlayment or sheathing paper.
Fiberglass mat: An asphalt roofing base material manufactured from glass fibers.
Flashing: Pieces of galvanized metal (usually aluminum or copper) or roll roofing used to prevent seepage of water into a building around any intersection or projection in a roof such as vent pipes, chimneys, adjoining walls, dormers and valleys.
Free-tab shingles: Shingles that do not contain factory-applied strips or spots of self-sealing adhesive.
Gable: The upper portion of a sidewall that comes to a triangular point at the ridge of a sloping roof.
Gable roof: A type of roof containing sloping planes of the same pitch on each side of the ridge, with a gable at each end.
Gambrel roof: A type of roof containing two sloping planes of different pitch on each side of the ridge. The lower plane has a steeper slope than the upper. Contains a gable at each end.
Granules: Ceramic-coated colored crushed rock that is applied to the exposed surface of asphalt roofing products.
Gutter: The trough that channels water from the eaves to the downspouts.
Hip: The inclined external angle formed by the intersection of two sloping roof planes. Runs from the ridge to the eaves.
Hip roof: A type of roof containing sloping planes of the same pitch on each of four sides No gables.
Hip shingles: Shingles used to cover the inclined external angle formed by the intersection of two sloping roof planes.
Ice dam: Condition formed at the lower roof edge by the thawing and re-freezing of melted snow on the overhang. Can force water up and under shingles, causing leaks.
Interlocking shingles: Individual shingles that mechanically fasten to each other to provide wind resistance.
Laminated shingles: Strip shingles containing more than one layer of tabs to create extra thickness. Also known as three-dimensional shingles or architectural shingles.
Lap: To cover the surface of one shingles or roll with another.
Lap cement: An asphalt based cement used to adhere overlapping plies of roll roofing.
Mansard roof: A type of roof containing two sloping planes of different pitch on each of four sides. The lower plane has a much steeper pitch than the upper, often approaching vertical. Contains no gables.
Masonry primer: An asphalt-based primer used to prepare masonry surfaces for bonding with other asphalt products.
Mineral-surfaced roofing: Asphalt shingles and roll roofing that are covered with granules.
Nesting: A method of reroofing with new asphalt shingles over old shingles in which the top edge of the new shingle is butted against the bottom edge of the existing shingle tab.
No-cutout shingles: Shingles consisting of a single, solid tab with no cutouts.
Open valley: Method of valley construction in which shingles on both sides of the valley are trimmed along a chalk line snapped on each side of the valley. Shingles do not extend across the valley. Valley flashing is exposed.
Organic felt: An asphalt roofing base material manufactured from cellulose fibers.
Overhang: That portion of the roof structure that extends beyond the exterior walls of a building.
Pitch: The degree of roof incline expressed as the ratio of the rise, in feet, to the span, in feet.
Ply: The number of layers of roofing: i.e. one-ply, two-ply.
Rafter: The supporting framing member immediately beneath the deck, sloping from the ridge to the wall plate.
Rake: The inclined edge of a sloped roof over a wall.
Ridge: The uppermost, horizontal external angle formed by the intersection of two sloping roof planes.
Ridge shingles or ridge cap: Shingles used to cover the horizontal external angle formed by the intersection of two sloping roof planes.
Rise: The vertical distance from the eaves line to the ridge.
Roll roofing: Asphalt roofing products manufactured in roll form.
Roofing tape: An asphalt-saturated tape used with asphalt cements for flashing and patching asphalt roofing.
Run: The horizontal distance from the eaves to a point directly under the ridge.
Saturant: Asphalt used to impregnate an organic felt base material.
Self-sealing shingles: Shingles containing factory-applied strips or spots of self-sealing adhesive.
Self-sealing strip or spot: Factory-applied adhesive that bonds shingle courses together when exposed to the heat of the sun after application.
Shading: Slight differences in shingle color that may occur as a result of normal manufacturing operations.
Sheathing: Exterior grade boards used as a roof deck material.
Shed roof: A roof containing only one sloping plane. No hip, ridges, valleys or gables.
Slope: The degree of roof incline expressed as the ratio of the rise, in inches, to the run, in feet.
Smooth-surfaced roofing: Roll roofing that is covered with ground talc or mica instead of granules (coated).
Soffit: The finished underside of the eaves.
Soil stack: A vent pipe that penetrates the roof.
Span: The horizontal distance from eaves to eaves.
Square: A unit of roof measure covering 100 square feet. A roof with a field area of 2,500 square feet would be called a 25 square roof.
Starter strip: Asphalt roofing applied at the eaves that provide protection by filling in the spaces under the cutouts and joints of the first course of shingles.
Step flashing: Flashing application method used where a vertical surface meets a sloping roof plane.
Tab: The exposed portion of strip shingles defined by cutouts.
Top lap: That portion of the roofing covered by the succeeding course after installation.
Underlayment: Asphalt saturated felt used beneath roofing to provide additional protection for the deck.
Valley: The internal angle formed by the intersection of two sloping roof planes.
Vapor retarder: Any material used to prevent the passage of water vapor.
Vent: Any outlet for air that protrudes through the roof deck such as a pipe or stack. Any device installed on the roof, gable or soffit for the purpose of ventilating the underside of the roof deck.
Call Amherst Roofing today if you have any questions about the above roofing terms at: 239-594-1133.
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It seems pretty simple, but what can go wrong?
Answer: You can sign a contract, pay a down payment and never see the roofer again or you can sign a contract, they deliver the materials on your roof, set a dumpster in the front of your garage and you never see them again. There are many variations on this scheme, all with the same result. Hopefully, the scheme plays itself out before your roof is torn off and your house is exposed.
What can I do to protect myself?
Answer: Do not hire anyone who is not licensed, bonded and insured, and never hire anyone who does not have an advertisement in the yellow pages. Select a contractor that has operated in your community for at least ten years. Do not give any money for work that has not been already done. Always ask for a release of lien before paying your balance. Always ask for a material vendors release of lien before paying your bill.
What if the contractor tells me that they did not put a lien on my house?
Answer: The materials vendor can send a Notice To Owner within 45 days of the last materials he supplied for your home. He then has one year to file a lien. Get a release for any materials that should have been used on your house.
Are all roofing contractors listed in the yellow pages licensed, bonded and insured?
Answer: No, they are supposed to be, but the yellow pages does not verify this information. Usually the ads are very misleading, to find out the real story on someone, go to MyFlorida.com. You may find that someone who advertises they have been in business in Florida since 1960, was born in 1960, opened in 1985, was out of business in 1987, reopened again in 1988 then out of business again in 1990, etc. Always ask for at least three references and call them.
Is a permit required and if so how can I verify one was purchased?
Answer: In order to buy a permit, the contractor needs a Notice of Commencement signed and notarized by the owner if the work is started without one, start to worry. Most contractors will run the legal for you and provide a notary to come to your home and notarize your signature. They then file the Notice of Commencement and purchase the permit. The permit should be posted on your home for you to see. If you are unsure, call the building department and make sure a permit was purchased before you pay your bill.
How can I tell if my roofer is licensed?
Answer: Ask to see their roofing license. It should either be a State Certified Roofing Licensed or a Local Roofing License; an Occupational License is not a Roofing License, but it is required to purchase a Roofing License. You cannot legally pull a permit, or do a roofing job without a Roofing License. If in doubt call the Building Department or check www.MyFlorida.com.
What does it mean to be Bonded and Insured?
Answer: In order to have a license, you must post a bond. The theory behind the bond is to insure that if you damage someone’s home, the homeowner can go to the bonding company for repair costs. The problem is that the cost of the bond has not kept up with inflation. If someone does three to four million dollars annually and you are number fifteen on the list, a 10,000.00 bond will not go far.Everyone is supposed to have liability insurance, unfortunately, there is no real check to make sure that they do not have a 100,000.00 liability policy with a 50,000.00 deductible or if once the license was purchased the insurance policy was cancelled. Ask to see the policy. Insurance companies will provide a copy of the policy for free.
Can I get someone to do my home with a Worker’s Compensation Exemption?
Answer: Yes, anyone who is incorporated and has three people or less, all three of the owners can be exempt. However, Worker’s Compensation on owners is inexpensive, only fifteen to twenty percent. Foremen cost less as well, only the roofers who are really at risk are expensive and even then the cost is less than fifty percent. There is also a Drug Free Workplace discount and a five percent Safety discount, and they are a member of FRSA’s (Florida Roofing and Sheet Medal Association) Self Insurance Program, there are mid year and year end discounts. Usually, the average bottom line cost is under thirty percent.
I understand that Worker’s Compensation Insurance is very expensive. Aren’t most serious accidents on large Commercial projects?
Answer: Studies have shown that most serious injuries per dollar volume happen to small residential crews. Why leave your home exposed? Make sure your contractor carries Worker’sCompensation insurance. The cost of Worker’s Compensation is less than ten percent of the total cost of the roof, so why take the chance?
How do I know which roof to buy?
Answer: Call Amherst Roofing, today, we have been in businees since 1987 and have 25 years experience behind us to help you make the right decision.
We look forward to serving your roofing needs!
